Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Lady lady love me becaue I love to lay here lazy

Raglan is a great town. It is very small, two streets, one little supermarket, a couple cafes, a few surf shops and that is about it.

I've spent the last three days getting up early, having a hearty bowl of knockoff cocoa puffs and then headed out for a few hours of surfing. After surfing all morning we get back to the hostel in the early afternoon, maybe have lunch or maybe just lie in the hammock in the sun reading and napping. After some naps a long walk on the beach, some skim boarding or just more time in the hammock is usually in order.

After dinner we've been having a few cold beers in the hot tub, then a few more beers and hanging out with native english speakers (a unique experience in hostels for us so far, the majority of travelers here are German).

The surfing has been absolutely incredible. So much work to finally get to a wave and 80% of the time I can't do anything with the wave. I was able to stand up a couple times my first day and most times the last two days. I have only been able to actually ride the face of the wave twice but its an amazing feeling. Going from lying on the board to feeling the wave pulling you back, bringing you to its crest and then pushing you forward as you glide along the water. Then standing up and actually turning onto the open face of the wave in front of the white wash and feeling some measure of control over gliding over the surface of the water is great. It is more then worth the getting up early, putting on a damp wet suit and getting into the cold ocean. I think I may be staying here a couple extra days just for that feeling alone.

Also, it is pizza night at the hostel. They supply the dough, we supply the toppings and get whatever kind of pizza we want.

1 comment:

  1. nothing like some jack johnson to inspire a little sufing, regardless of your ability to actually get on a wave lol. i am jealous mike! looks like losing your canoe was the best thing to happen to you thus far. the people you are meeting along the way sound like a godsend (minus the god). come home soon :) but obv not too soon because who can really tear themselves away from surfing, beering, and hammock-laying? love of love

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